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Category Archives: What to do in Dubai when you’re bored

Someone in my family white a long tradition of complaining about bosses, work, politicians and other things around him criticized yesterday that I am not being upbeat enough and too cynical in my blog.

Well, I was about to write a positive and warm post about supermarkets in Kyrgyzstan, but haven’t gotten around to it yet as I am too busy dodging crazy ladas while cycling to work.

But in the meantime: A Kyrgyz friend introduced me to this youtube video about a (I am afraid, non-Kyrgyz) dancing bird:

I hope this counterbalances the cynicism of the other posts.

From Abu Dhabi to Dubai

As mentioned in the post below, we spent the first weekend in Abu Dhabi in an amazingly expensive hotel – but at least this time it was worth the money. We strolled around the city, Bobby bought a new camera, we visited the “heritage village” (where you can see how Emiratis used to live about 100 years ago) and some malls (where you can see how Emiratis live now).

Then, we took a bus to Dubai:

Dubai's Underground is mainly above ground - and will open "bukrah, in sha'allah"

Dubai's Underground is mainly above ground - and will open "bukrah, in sha'allah"

Burg Dubai - will also open "bukrah, in ..."

Burg Dubai - will also open "bukrah, in ..."

Back in Dubai, we strolled around in the Bastakiya area, where there is an art exhibition about the sand and the people of the Emirates:

Strolling around in Bastakiya

Strolling around in Bastakiya

Courtyard in Bastakiya

Courtyard in Bastakiya

Hurray! A local! In touristic Bastakiya!

Hurray! A local! In touristic Bastakiya!

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Sand, sand, sand... Just like after a sandstorm

Sand, sand, sand... Just like after a sandstorm

We also did some window shopping in the gold souq:

A shop in the gold souq. And a Chinese in traditional picture pose.

A shop in the gold souq. And a Chinese in traditional picture pose.

Wild Wadi Waterpark

And then, just for a change, we headed for the Wild Wadi Waterpark:

With one of the highest waterslides - the Jumeirah Sceirah

With one of the highest water slides - the Jumeirah Sceirah

and there's a perfect view of one of the most expensive hotels and restaurants in the world

and there's a perfect view of one of the most expensive hotel and restaurants in the world

Heh!

Heh!

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Umm… did I mention that we managed to put our only day of outside water fun on the day Dubai experienced another sandstorm? >:(

Burj Dubai in a sandstorm. And yes, we were almost blown away while waiting for our turn on the Jumeirah Sceirah...

Burj Dubai in a sandstorm. And yes, we were almost blown away while waiting for our turn on the Jumeirah Sceirah...

In a way, the Wild Wadi Waterpark turned out to be the perfect metaphor for Dubai: Surprisingly cold (even without air-con), traffic (well, dingy) jams everywhere and it doesn’t really require a lot of physical exercise: Your dingy gets transported in the right direction either by conveyor belts or else by friendly South East Asians…

Rabih Mroué

Rabih Mroué

To weeks ago, I attended a performance of Rabih Mroué, a Lebanese artist and actor who mused about Lebanese propaganda posters in which pictures had been changed with computer programs.

The most striking of those pictures was probably the one below (as always, you can click on the pictures to enlarge them).

Gamal Abd al-Nasir meets Rafiq Hariri

Gamal Abd al-Nasir meets Rafiq Hariri

In which the late  President of Egypt, Gamal Abd al-Nasir, seems to just have stopped chatting away with the late Prime Minister of Lebanon, Rafiq Hariri.

Those of you familiar with the endlessly complicated history of the Middle East (and Lebanon in particular) probably know that such a meeting would have to involve an almost equally complicated time-space paradoxon.

Mroué also commented on Hizbollah’s martyrs’ posters, where the heads of all the fighters who died in the battle against Israel are stuck unto the same body, and the unnerving appearance of communist martyrs in the background of their soon-to-be-dead successors…

Dead Hizbullah fighters all have the exact same body and background

Dead Hizbullah fighters all have the exact same body and background

While the images of dead communist fighters haunt the living

While the images of dead communist fighters haunt the living

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Madinat Jumeirah

This performance was part of  much bigger Art exhibition in Madinat Jumeirah – a large complex with a resort, a gallery, and, inevitably, a mall… But while the shops are nothing to write home about, the whole complex is quite beautiful:

Madinat Jumeirah

Madinat Jumeirah

Madinat Jumeirah with Burj al-Arab in the background

Madinat Jumeirah with Burj al-Arab in the background

One shop to be opened after the other

One shop to be opened after the other

It has been noted that Dubai Marina Mall is the smaller brother (or sister?) of Dubai Mall. Well, minus the aquarium and the impersonation of the Chiemsee logo, which basically leaves it as a boring clone with very similar shops, empty corridors and just as many boutiques that haven’t opened yet. The recent opening ceremony didn’t occur at the most auspicious point in the economic cycle, I guess…

What is new is that when I took this picture of the endless rows of shops that will open RSN, a security guard walked up to me and asked me to stop. I remember that on one of the tourist maps I’ve been given it actually states that you have to ask the owner of the mall for permission before taking pictures. That was the first time I’ve seen this rule enforced, though.

Feeling rebellious, I moved up one floor and took another picture – just to spite the powers that be (which would be Emaar Properties, I think):

Na na na na nah na

Na na na na nah na

Not a ghost bus: No 33 from al-Ghubaiba to al-Qusais

Not a ghost bus: No 33 from al-Ghubaiba to al-Qusais

There’s as song by the late Swiss chansonnier (singer & songwriter) Mani Matter – the song about the train stations where the trains always have already left or not arrived yet (“Ds lied vo de Bahnhöf wo dr zug geng sho abgfahre isch odr no nid isch cho”). I feel strongly that somebody in Dubai should write a song about the busses that never arrive or have already left.

Dubai’s Road & Transport Authority (RTA)

Don’t get me wrong – the Dubai bus system is much better than its reputation, and many busses travel frequently and quickly. At least when there’s no traffic jam. But there are some busses – even indicated in the latest bus map issued in February 2009 – that are probably the stuff of myths and legends.

I tried to take such a bus recently when going to the Ibn Battuta mall at the very outskirts of Dubai (it’s literally halfway to Abu Dhabi). The nice man at Satwa Bus Station had advised me to take bus No. 90. I should have taken that worried look on his face as warning: After an hour of waiting, I hadn’t spotted a single no No. 90 anywhere. Of course, I could have taken a taxi. Blame it on my perverse pleasure (or misplaced scientific sense of duty) that I remained seated at the station just to disprove the hypothesis of the existence of a bus No. 90.

Two hours and 50 “C15s” heading for the Iranian Hospital later I think I can confidently declare that bus No. 90 does not exist, or at least does not run on the hourly schedule advertised.

On related news of cryptozoology

Another mystical creature in Dubai is the vacuum cleaner that we supposedly are able to borrow here. For more than three weeks now I ask the guy at the entrace at least twice a day if I could use it to clean my (in the meantime rather dirty) wall-to-wall carpet.

“It’s under the stairs” – “No it isn’t.” – “Oh, then somebody must be using it – try again tomorrow.”

Bastakiya Art Café after the rain. Which two details prove that this picture was indeed taken after the rain?

Bastakiya Art Café after the rain. For aspiring Sherlock Holmeses: Which two details prove that this picture was indeed taken after the rain?

“Oh, the cleaning people are using it right now.” “Well, when will they be done?” “In an hour.” After an hour it still was nowhere to be seen. This is a clear case of the “bukrah, in sha’allah” syndrome, the middle eastern cousin of the “mañana” syndrome (to which I might dedicate an entry in the future – suffice to say that the meaning of “bukrah”, tomorrow, can mean any point in time in the future except the next couple of hours).

It then turned out that the apartment’s vacuum cleaner is indeed a ghost. It is no more. It has kicked the bucket,  shuffled off its mortal coil, run down the curtain and joined the bleedin’ choir invisibile – it is an ex-vacuum cleaner!, so to speak.  I could use the cleaning staff’s vacuum cleaner instead – which of course was equally difficult to get. But after almost three weeks, I now finally managed to get my hands on the damn thing. My, does my room look clean now!

And now for something completely the same

The weather. It is raining again.

The cirque du soleil

The cirque du soleil is in town – and having heard a lot about their shows without actually ever attending one, I decided to use this opportunity to see the cirque and Ibn Battuta Mall, where the show takes place. Quite expensive – the cheapest tickets were 300 AED…

Of course I wasn’t allowed to take pictures, so all I can do is add this YouTube video to give you an impression of what I’ve saw:

The places Ibn Battuta has been and the things he bought there

Enter the dragon

Enter the dragon

However, I can show you some pretty pictures from the Ibn Battuta Mall itself: It is named after Ibn Battuta, a famous Muslim Berber who travelled through almost all of the (then) known world from Marocco to China. For once, this mall also contains some pedagogically valuable displays of Ibn Battuta and the discoveries made in the countries he travelled through. But of course it mainly serves one purpose: shopping. So you can follow Ibn Battuta’s journey through the gates of the forbidden city, past a big gym to the Chinese food court, where you will see Ibn Battuta’s vessel (as always you can click on the pictures to enlarge them):

Chinese Junk

Chinese Junk

Chinese Junk, slightly stranded

Chinese Junk, slightly stranded

More Chinese junk - pardon, Canadian...

More Chinese junk - pardon, Canadian...

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From there, you pass by one of several starbucks (as was to be expected, all the other famouse chains are represented here as well: KFC, McDonalds, Burger King, you name it…), only to enter India, elephants and everything included:

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india1elefant

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Just go ahead and enjoy the emormous spaces and cupolas by running around on the marble floor:

india2running_around_in_india

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Before entering Persia:

persia1persia2

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From there, you’ll experience a short flash back to the Wafi Mall – Eyptian design and an introduction to their star-gazing galore:

egypt1egypt2

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Five minutes later, you’ll stroll through the pleasant alleys of ancient Tunis – decorated with surprisingly modern street lamps…

tunis2tunis

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Tired and heavily burdened by our shopping bags, we arrive back in Europe – al-Andalus, present day Spain:

andalus2andalus3andalus1

Mercato Shopping Mall from outside

Mercato Shopping Mall from outside

Just like bella italia, isn't it?

Just like bella italia, isn't it?

Mercato Mall has a clear theme: Italy. Or at least a very pastel-coloured, kitschy Italy. I’ll leave you with some impressions in images instead of babbling… Oh, and do have a look at their website – the intro says it all, and is just hilarious.

I’m already looking forward to some interesting comments by my Italian friends in Kyrgyzstan… *ducks to dodge some rotten Italian tomatoes

The main hall

The main hall

The main hall from the other side

The main hall from the other side

strolling and shopping

strolling and shopping

or sitting in the shade of a tree

or sitting in the shade of a tree

or in the courtyard

or in the courtyard

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Ramakian Cola - a Mocktail

Ramakian Cola - a Mocktail at the Noodle House in the Deira City Centre

One of the advantages of living in a country where “sharia law” is (sort of) applied is that because restaurants need a special license to sell alcoholic beverages, those that don’t serve “Mocktails” instead – mixtures of fruit juices, soda and whatnots but without alcohol.

So finally I too get to choose from a lengthy  list of fantastical names to receive a elegant glass with a funny-shaped straw and layers of bizarre colours in it.

Yay for sharia law. Although this particular odd couple would probably disagree.

(Ah… Getting sloshed, having sex on a public beach, ignoring a warning issued by the police and then attacking the police officer when he returns. And all that in an Islamic country. I’d call that a crime against human intelligence. It’s nice to see that just for once, stupidity is punishable  – with three months of prison, in fact. Unfortunately, the sentence was later suspended. Who the heck said that sharia law is too harsh?)

Whoa, horsie!

Whoa, horsie!

The particular Mocktail in the picture above (click on picture for a better view) I had at another mall just around the corner: The Deira City Centre. Its main distinctive feature is that it is situated in Deira. Near the city centre. But not having a theme hasn’t prevented its constructors from adding some amazingly creative… well… “thingies”. Some things should make any decent interior decorator shrivel up and die.

I'll have the horse entrecôte, please!

I'll have the horse steak, please

Well, let’s face it: malls weren’t built to win a price in style, but convenience. Having lived in developing countries where you can easily spend two full days trying to find a decent piece of chocolate that hasn’t melted several times before it landed on the shelf, I’ll be the first to recognize the advantage of having a big collection of shops in front of your doorstep where you find all the creature comforts you could possibly crave. Go ahead, call me decadent.

The Art Café in the old Bastakiya Quarter

The Art Café in the old Bastakiya Quarter

Near Dubai Creek on the Bur Dubai side is an area called “Bastakiya” where the old buildings of Persien merchants have been restored, including the building’s “wind towers” (basically 19th century air conditioners) and beautiful inner courtyards. There are of course plenty of restaurants and cafés catering for the tourists – as well as handicraft displays, galleries and several beduins squatting in front of their tent with a camel. One of the cafés is the Art Café, where I like to write my reports and go online using the nearby hotel’s free Wifi.

Enjoying the cool breeze that carries the tune of the muezzin from the nearby mosque, watching tourists discuss their travel plans while sipping on a delicious fruit juice… What else do you need in life to relax from being involved in a soap opera?

On another work-related side note: It appears that I have just been declared a persona non grata by the Uzbek Consulate. And all I did was showing up three times there without saying much and doing even less. Way to go! Yay me. (More on that in the next post – too amused to explain right now)

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